Repairing the Acer AL2216W LCD monitor

August 20, 2010 by
Filed under: Acer, Monitor Repair, Viewsonic 

This time we will be doing a power supply repair on the Acer AL2216w 22″ flat panel LCD monitor. This monitor uses the DAC-19M010 power supply board,  this board is also used in the Viewsonic VX2235WM monitor and Westinghouse LCM-22W2 and a few LCM-22W3 units.

To do the repair you will need the following tools: Soldering iron, de-solder braid, Phillips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver and a 3/16″ nut driver. You will also need the following electronic parts: qty(2) 220uf 25v capacitor, qty(2) 1000uf 25v capacitor, qty(1) 470uf 25v, qty(1) 2200uf 10v and qty(1) 1000uf 10v. For information about getting the correct capacitors for the repair check out this article about capacitors. We sell a repair kit with all of the parts for $14.00


This is not guaranteed to solve all problems but in most cases this is the issue with this model.

If you don’t want to do the repair yourself, use the service request link above. Most monitor repairs run $30-35 plus return shipping.

Here is the monitor we will be repairing, this unit has no power but the power board can also cause a flashing or flickering display or a monitor that is slow to display a picture.

First remove the power and signal cables and the stand. Now lay the monitor on a flat surface and remove the 5 screws shown circled.

Remove the back cover by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the two halves and gently prying the case apart. There are plastic latches every 2-3 inches around the perimeter.

With the back cover removed the next thing to do is remove the shielding. First remove the 4 3/16″ nuts on the VGA and DVI connectors. Next we need to remove the small screws that hold the shield in place as well as the two screws that hold the power plug.

This picture shows the backlight plugs. These will need to be unplugged. When plugging them back in the order is not important.

With the shield removed you can see the power supply board and the video board. To remove the board just unscrew the 4 screws shown circled and separate the two board at the interconnect.

Here is a closeup picture of the power supply board. It is model DAC-19M010. The parts to replace are shown circled in red. The location numbers and values are as follows:
470uf 25v C204
220uf 25v CE101 and CE108
1000uf 25v CE104 and CE103
1000uf 10v CE105
2200uf 10v CE106
Unsolder the old capacitors using the soldering iron and wick and solder in the new ones. Be sure to insert the new ones with the polarity stripe going the same way as the old ones.

After replacing the 7 capacitors just reassemble the unit and test. You should now have a fully working monitor.

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Comments

44 Comments on Repairing the Acer AL2216W LCD monitor

  1. Chris on Sat, 9th Oct 2010 4:07 pm
  2. Hey I have this power supply board in my Westinghouse LCM-22w3 and I attempted to repair it based on the article for my monitor on your site. I didn’t have the correct values for the capacitors needed but the one that was visually not good was the 2200uf so I replaced it with a 35v 1000uf that I had laying around. The odd thing is that it powered up and ran perfectly for about an hour and then stopped.

    Prior to this the monitor would power on and show “no signal” but would not display any picture, the power LED would also come on. Now nothing comes on, not even the LED. I can hear the transformer making it’s high pitched noise (I think that’s the transformer).

    Again I have tried to repair it when I found out radio shack had the correct capacities although all in 35v. So all of the capacitors have been replaced based on the power supply board DAC-19M010 diagram here on your site with the exception of the 2200uf, this one I had to solder 2 1000uf in parallel. I have also checked the 3 fuses on the back of the board and they all check out.

    At this point I would like to know if there are any other typical failures to look for and if my first attempt at a quick fix with the single 1000uf capacitor ended up causing damage to other parts. If you could point me in the right direction to do some preliminary testing to see if it is the power supply or the monitor itself and if it is the monitor, what I should check. Thanks for the help!

  3. CCL_TECH on Mon, 18th Oct 2010 1:26 pm
  4. Hello Chris,

    The capacitors from Radio Shack will not work in the high speed switching power supplies that are found in monitors and computers. You need to only use low ESR, High ripple current and high temp parts. It sounds like the new caps you put in have failed under the stress of the circuit. We have an article posted on our site about choosing the correct caps for the job, it is at: http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/capacitors/ Checkit out and try the repair with good quality caps and you should be back running again.

  5. Randall Ayerst on Sun, 13th Feb 2011 3:59 pm
  6. Apparently there are more than one version of this Delta power board. I fixed my VX2235wm using this general information. My power board has 2 half inch square IC’s located approximately where the DELTA name appears on the picture and a blown 220 uf capacitor approximately located where the red mark is on the DAC number. On the right hand side , reading from the bottom, the second capacitor up is replaced by a small plastic transistor and 2 capacitors. Now you have, reading from the bottom, a 330uf cap, a small transistor, a 220uf cap, and I believe a 1000uf cap. The 330 and the 1000 were lime green in colour and marked as a subsiduary of Nichicon and looked fine so were not replaced. All of the other caps (CapsXon) were replaced with Panasonic capacitors. Unfortunately, the 2 1000uf 25v caps (the 2 side by side) were of a much larger height and would not allow the EMI cover to be installed. I cut a horizontal slot in the cover and the caps stick out about 1/8 ” but everything else works fine.

  7. Ralph M. on Thu, 17th Feb 2011 3:04 am
  8. Hey Guys… Got my PS Board back… slapped it in my AL2216W…buttoned it up… powered it up and bingo!! Best part was finding your website… nary a scratch or plastic ding on the case… back together like new!! and yes Buddy… snow is melting!! Thanx… Ralph

  9. Garrett on Sun, 7th Aug 2011 12:18 am
  10. Just wanted to say thanks a whole bunch, this repair guide saved me a ton of money by repairing my burnt out monitor as opposed to buying a new one. On a side note while I have the same model of monitor (AL2216W) the power supply board inside was different (DAC-19M009); the capacitors and location numbers were slightly different but applying a little bit of common sense made everything turn out fine, still worked with the same $14 repair kit I bought from you guys. Thanks again.

  11. Dave on Tue, 16th Aug 2011 1:59 pm
  12. Thank you, my wife is happy now that her monitor is fixed :) It was kind of a pain to get the factory solder off but it worked.

  13. Justin on Mon, 30th Jan 2012 10:42 am
  14. I have the AL2216W with the DAC-19M009 board. Is this board interchangeable with the DAC-19M010? Tried replacing the capacitors already, no luck. Easier just to replace the board I think, but the DAC-19M009 is about twice the price of the DAC-19M010.

  15. admin on Mon, 30th Jan 2012 10:49 am
  16. Both boards should be compatible. Where you get into problems is when you have one board with sound and one without but neither of these have sound.

  17. Ken Bergen on Sat, 10th Mar 2012 7:08 am
  18. I have a AL2216W which goes to black after a brief desktop display of about 1 second. Rather than change the bad caps on it’s DAC-19M009 board, I purchased a new replacement DAC-19M010 board and installed it, but the problem persists. Is there another component that could also be causing this problem?

  19. CCL_TECH on Sat, 10th Mar 2012 8:39 am
  20. Well, the back light bulbs could be bad but it is usually the power supply board that causes that problem. Where did you get the power supply board? We have seen many people get boards from Ebay that are just as dead as the ones they want to replace. Most of them come from dead monitors without being tested or rebuilt. Can you send a picture of the old and new boards to us at tech@ccl-la.com and we will see if we can help.

  21. Colin Jones on Mon, 16th Apr 2012 2:20 pm
  22. I have a problem with my AL2216W

    When I first switch my pc on, there is no activity at all from the monitor.

    If I sit there and repeatedly switch the monitor on & off I eventually get to a Windows desktop and it behaves perfectly ok once there. During this process, I can ‘see’ the desktop faintly but it then switches back to black.
    Would cap. refit sort this problem out do you think?

  23. CCL_TECH on Mon, 16th Apr 2012 2:28 pm
  24. Yes, Your problem is very typical of capacitor failure. It sounds like the capacitors on your power supply board are almost dead but will hold a charge after repeated power cycles. If you open the monitor you should see several capacitors with the tops bulging. These are the ones that are causing the problems but you need to replace all of the capacitors on the board at one time, the others will be very close to failing just no visible signs yet. Once you replace the capacitors your monitor should be as good as new again.

  25. Colin Jones on Mon, 16th Apr 2012 4:13 pm
  26. Ah, that’s good news. Thanks for your help

  27. JohnR on Wed, 25th Apr 2012 1:12 pm
  28. Problem: Power on, green light stays lit, desktop displays for about a second and then back light cuts out.

    Replaced all the capacitors, problem persists, I believe the backlights are bad at this point. Can someone point me to someone that has them?

  29. CCL_TECH on Wed, 25th Apr 2012 2:31 pm
  30. Hello John,

    Sorry you are still having issues. The CFL tubes are available here: http://www.ccflwarehouse.com/lampfinder.html

  31. ed on Mon, 1st Oct 2012 10:26 am
  32. I have a 19M010 board that has sound. It came out of a Westinghouse LCM-22w3 monitor that I’m replacing the caps on.

  33. Bo on Thu, 22nd Nov 2012 11:13 pm
  34. Excellent! My monitor is fixed! I’ve never soldered before this. I watched the following two YouTube videos to get a feel for what I needed to do:

    Basic How to Solder: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

    How to Remove Capacitors: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEzh4wEdRxw

    There was white rubber-glue holding some of the capacitors down I just dealt with using the little clippers I have.

    I noticed one original capacitor was 330uf while the new one was 470uf. After some Googling, I decided it should be okay, and apparently, it is.

    Thank you for this CCL Tech! Money well spent :)

  35. Erik on Sun, 9th Dec 2012 5:32 pm
  36. Ordered this kit, and arrived about a week later. Took monitor apart, swapped parts, and 20 minutes later I had my monitor back working again!

    Last thing I wanted to spend some cash on was a new monitor right before x-mas, so much tanks for making this kit, and instructions available!

  37. tpierce on Sun, 6th Jan 2013 7:18 pm
  38. i was able to fix my monitor by only relpacing the second from the bottom capacitor, it works perfectly.

  39. Steven Jarris on Wed, 16th Jan 2013 10:45 am
  40. Thanks for sharing this information. I had an Acer for a long time and Acer repair parts are pretty important. Thanks again for sharing this.

  41. Lee on Thu, 14th Feb 2013 10:41 pm
  42. After finding your site it gave me hope to try and fix my lcm-22w3 monitor. One day it was just a black screen, power light stayed on. Checked this guide and took apart the monitor, all the caps were pushed on the top, so I removed those as in the picture, and got exact replacements from amazon, not thinking you sell the whole kit.

    After installing said caps, im left with the same black screen, although when shining a flashlight on the screen i can see the destop just fine, its just not light up :(
    Any thoughts? will trying your kit benefit in any way? or something else is the culprit ?

  43. CCL_TECH on Fri, 15th Feb 2013 11:12 am
  44. Hello,

    Two things, first are the capacitors that you used low ESR, high temp and high ripple current? They will need to be the correct type to run the board.

    Second, the driver chips AOP605 could be blown if the capacitors were really bad. You can get replacement driver chips here.
    http://www.ccl-la.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=164

  45. Ken Swanson on Fri, 15th Feb 2013 11:12 am
  46. Usually, when you can see the image with an external light, as you have described, the problem originates with a faulty high voltage circuit that powers the backlight that lights up the screen from behind, or the backlight lamp itself. I would try googling “Backlight problems lcm-22w3″, and see what solutions that others have found for that particular unit. Usually each brand of lcd will fail in a similar manner–the kit that I got for my Acer AL2216W had both capacitors and diodes, I only changed the caps, and the unit was resurrected (For over a year now) So check for other repair kits that have different components, and make sure the capacitor part numbers are exactly the same as the parts that you originally replaced.

  47. Lee on Fri, 15th Feb 2013 1:31 pm
  48. Well searching more came up with the same types of pages, replace the caps ect. I went ahead and ordered the kit from this site and those chips, but where do those chips go ?

  49. Ken Swanson on Fri, 15th Feb 2013 2:54 pm
  50. You should replace the parts on the power supply board that appear exactly the same, and have the same number, as the parts in the kit you receive. I received 2 voltage regulators with the capacitors, in the kit I ordered, but it would be helpful if you enclose a link to the kit you ordered, showing the individual components. You should also look closely at post 22, because some poor quality repair kits put in cheaper caps that were not as post 22 describes,
    Capacitors have polarity, and must be installed in the same way as the ones that you remove, or they will function incorrectly. I trust you were aware of this when you installed the caps on your ps board. The regulators that came with my kit have 3 legs on each side and are trickier to solder than caps. In my case, I replaced all the caps, and did not have to install these regulators (& perhaps some of the caps, which were not bulging). But I installed all the caps anyway, as I had the LDC all apart.

    Please post that link…..

  51. CCL_TECH on Fri, 15th Feb 2013 3:31 pm
  52. Lee,

    Just to verify, what version of the power supply board do you have. It should start with DAC-????????? post back the full board part number so we can be sure. Some Acer and Westinghouse monitors use multiple power supply boards in the same model monitor.

  53. Lee on Fri, 15th Feb 2013 8:31 pm
  54. The board is DAC-19M010, 2995306200, Rev 00A. Ken, Ive got things covered for now, just gonna wait on these parts, I did install the other caps with correct positioning polarity.

  55. Benn on Wed, 27th Feb 2013 1:08 pm
  56. Hey Lee,

    I got exactly the same problem you described. Changed all the caps nothing changed in the monitor: still got a flashlight of the usual desktop than all black again…Looking forward to your next post. Are you trying to change the High voltage transformer driver chip?

  57. Charles Hunt on Mon, 8th Apr 2013 12:54 pm
  58. I must have a different version of the AL2216W because there are no screws in the back or anywhere I can see to remove the back. I don’t want to start prying on anything yet. Is there a secret to taking off the back of my monitor?

  59. TC on Sun, 14th Apr 2013 6:45 pm
  60. Having the same issue as Charles Hunt, wondering how to take the stand and back piece off the Dec 2007 configs.

  61. Corey on Fri, 26th Apr 2013 7:34 pm
  62. Hey, I recently bought the repair kit for this monitor from you guys and I found out that I have the DAC-19M009 board. My board has 8 caps in need of replacing while the board in this tutorial only has 7. All of the caps in the kit are exactly what i need except it contains one extra 470mf 25v cap and I need one more 220mf 25v cap and a 330mf 25v cap. Is it possible to order just these two extra caps that I need?

  63. Ken on Fri, 26th Apr 2013 8:54 pm
  64. Usually the bad caps are “domed” on top, and this indicates that the electrolytes are shot. However, as the caps are quite cheap, you are well advised to change all the caps that may fail in the future, as the cap kits usually have all of these. I changed all but 2, that appeared pristine, and were awkward to get to., but the kit was only $9 something with a small shipping charge, so I thought it would be good to change all the ones that appeared to be “doming” rather than save a few bucks and have to take the whole thing apart again.
    One of the big reasons that the caps fail is that they are installed between the two large heat syncs, and, I believe, are “baked” from the constant heat of the power transistors. This might well be a design flaw, or, worse yet, a designed “built-in” obsolescence. There are other places that all the caps could have been installed, away from a heat source, if the board has been designed in that way. Many LED, and LCD TV’s are designed in the same manner, and fail after just a few years of operation, as they do not come equipped with cooling fans. Companies have found ways to ensure that they will be able to sell new product in the future, even if it means that the buyers must pay the price with the short life span of their products.
    The bean counters that run these corporations only worry about the bottom line, but fail to realize that they will pay dearly in the future for crappy products made to fail, after consumers realize which companies make the worst products, and buy from other, more reputable, corporations.
    Always check a variety of review sites when you buy a product. Then, perhaps, you won’t need to be replacing components after just a few years!
    A couple of friends of mine had an expensive lcd tv that failed after just 3 years; I had a cousin with a Sony Trinitron that lasted 30 years.
    I rest my case–very little stuff is made to last anymore.

  65. photon on Thu, 30th May 2013 12:12 pm
  66. A google search for ‘how to take apart 2216w’ brought this site up in the first few results. (You know that means the caps are low qual when google knows why people are taking something apart)

    big thanks for the great visual guide on how to remove the cover. and for a list of the caps to replace. I did this before with a samsung something-or-other about 3 months ago which was also manufactured around 2009/2010, I think…

    …and sure enough CAPXON caps are once again to blame! These things are going to be the bane of us all. I hope they are being phased out. IT just isn’t right to replace a $100-200 display for Chinesefactory to save 50 cents on manufacturing costs… Oh well, buy replacements for all the caps on your device, (it won’t cost you much) spend ten bucks to buy replacements for everything. Then Desolder everything that’s bulging. If you are up to it, desolder whatever else is easy to access that’s same brand as the bad caps, resoldering whatever else you can acess without too much trouble. Test it. If something was in a tight space and you didn’t replace it, keep the other replacement components in a baggie. You might need them, you might not. but they cost not that much so might as well get them than pay for shipping twice.

    Or get their kit :)

  67. photon on Thu, 30th May 2013 12:18 pm
  68. A google search for ‘how to take apart 2216w’ brought this site up in the first few results. (You know that means the caps are low qual when google knows why people are taking something apart)

    big thanks for the great visual guide on how to remove the cover. and for a list of the caps to replace. I did this before with a samsung something-or-other about 3 months ago which was also manufactured around 2009/2010, I think…

    …and sure enough CAPXON caps are once again to blame! The post above me is right. And I wonder if it’s ‘defect by design’ the ‘Bad Capacitors’ website has an alternative explanation about this… I wonder what’s the real truth here.

    In any case, these little things are going to be the bane of us all. I hope they are being phased out. IT just isn’t right to replace a $100-200 display for Chinesefactory to save 50 cents on manufacturing costs… (Or worse a tv like ken mentioned) Oh well, buy replacements for all the caps on your device, (it won’t cost you much) spend ten bucks to buy replacements for everything. Then Desolder everything that’s bulging. If you are up to it, desolder whatever else is easy to access that’s same brand as the bad caps, resoldering whatever else you can acess without too much trouble. Test it. If something was in a tight space and you didn’t replace it, keep the other replacement components in a baggie. You might need them, you might not. but they cost not that much so might as well get them than pay for shipping twice.

    Or get their kit :)

    also CCL… I notice that these pics were taken in 2010… did you find a device that failed before warranty covered it? Damn! (my assumption based on my device being built around same time…) That just goes to show you what a problem this is.

  69. kenswa on Thu, 30th May 2013 2:37 pm
  70. To Photon and all;
    I don’t know how long any caps can survive in an environment like that which exists between the 2 big heatsyncs in the AL2216W power supply, and those of other lcd’s. It is almost as if the poor placement of the caps is by design. Companies have known since the 1930′s that unless products wear out, sales will decrease in the future. Built-in obsolescence is not a myth, but a reality.
    These power supplies become very hot in lcd monitors and tv’s; they probably would last a great deal longer if they had proper fans—but then, who would buy the new stuff?
    Meanwhile, our planetary resources dwindle, the search for new materials denigrates the remainder of our unspoiled wilderness, and landfills fill up with the mainly unrecycleable materials reaulting from failed units, or units too expensive to repair.
    Hats off to anyone who gets maximum use out of their possessions by taking the time to learn how to repair them when they break. You are all positive links in a negative, destructive chain!
    Perhaps companies will one day learn that the quick profit from designing early-failure devices is only a short term gain, because resources and materials become more expensive and harder to find as supplies diminish, and loss of market share due to a bad reputation from poor quality products will catch up with ALL such companies eventually.
    Read reviews, people, before you buy, so we do not support these dishonest and wasteful companies!

  71. Hans on Sun, 9th Jun 2013 9:20 am
  72. My Acer AL2216W gave up after 6 yrs. Found power board installed is DAC19M009 (Rev02A), so somewhat different from the board described. Quickly noted 3 “domed” capacitors. All of the type 220uF/25V. Purchased 3 capacitors (high frequency models) and didnot bother about the other capacitors as they appeared to be in good state. After replacement monitor is working perfect and for less than €10 repair cost. Thanks for the posting.

  73. Branjo on Fri, 27th Sep 2013 6:54 pm
  74. I have two AL2216W’s that have been slowly dying over the last year, constant boot looping (Accer……Accer…..Accer…etc etc) for about 20 – 30 minutes.

    After seeing this “how to” I jumped in the car went to Radioshack then Fry’s and picked up a soldering iron and all the Caps, had to go over on the voltage for them though as there were none that matched. So the 10v became 16v and the 25v became 35v. So after about 20 minutes on each monitor they both monitors booted with one Accer logo and then straight to desktop…fantastic! saved myself a few bucks on that one.

    Thanks to all for the tips and tricks and especially CCL_TECH for an awesome tutorial.

    PS have to say though that solder wick didn’t work at all for me, my iron is only 40w and I held that sucker plenty long enough, didn’t need it at all though as the iron tip was pretty sharp and it left a clear hole on the PCB for the new component to go in.

    Thanks again!

  75. Harry Sanders on Mon, 4th Nov 2013 8:26 pm
  76. dac-19m005 cf rev:ooa
    Bad surface mount fuse. Marked “w” have not been able to locate. do you have them or the specs?

  77. Rodlak on Sat, 9th Nov 2013 6:58 pm
  78. Monitor was acting similar to the “typical” behaviors mentioned in the article, but my son heard a high pitch whine a couple of times as the monitor was turned on. Is that something one would expect with the failing capacitors?

  79. GeorgeM on Tue, 12th Nov 2013 10:19 pm
  80. My AL2216W has quit working after 5 years. I opened it up and looked at the power supply capacitors, but none of them appeared to be domed/bulged. I don’t know much about electronics, but is it still a good possibility that the problem is the capacitors or would it be a waste of time/money to try to repair by changing the capacitors?

    BTW, my power supply board is a little different(715g2278-1) than the one above.

  81. CCL_TECH on Tue, 19th Nov 2013 9:02 am
  82. Yes,

    The failing capacitors can cause the monitor to whine. When they start going out the power supply can not filter the power correctly so you can get transformer whine due to the fluctuating voltages.

  83. CCL_TECH on Tue, 19th Nov 2013 9:04 am
  84. Yes, That is a 4amp pico fuse. We carry them in our web store at http://www.ccl-la.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=64

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