If you have a Westinghouse LCM-22W3 or other monitor that uses the DAC-19M009 power supply that either has a blinking power light or a very dark picture then this should help get you back running. This power board is also used in the Viewsonic VG2230WM, Viewsonic VX2245WM and Viewsonic VX2235WM-05 monitors so the symptoms and solution will be the same. Below you will find a full walk thru on repairing your LCD monitor. To do the repair you will need the following tools: Soldering iron, de-solder braid, Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver. You will also need the following electronic parts: qty(3) 220mf 25v capacitors, qty(2) 1000uf 25v capacitors qty(1) 1000uf 10v, qty(1) 2200 10v and qty(1) 330uf 25v capacitors. We sell a repair kit with all of the parts for $15.00 This is not guaranteed to solve all problems but in most cases this is the issue with this model.

If you don’t want to do the repair yourself, then please use the service request link above.

Here we have a non functional Westinghouse LCM-22W3 22″ LCD monitor. This one has no power at all.

First you need to remove the power cable, signal cable and the stand. To remove the stand remove plastic cover and then the 4 screws as shown in the picture to the right. After the stand is off the you should be able to finish removing the case. Start the case removal by removing the 5 screws that hold the case together, there is one near each corner and one in the center at the bottom.

The case will pop open if you insert a small flat screwdriver between the 2 halves and apply a gentle pressure. There are plastic catches around the case as seen below, they will release with a little pressure. Once it starts opening just use your fingers and work your way around the screen.

After the back case is removed you need to unplug the control panel. Place the monitor face down on a towel and gentle lift the back until you can see the control panel. The flat ribbon cable plugs into the connector. Unplug it and set the back to the side.

Now you need to remove the metal shield from the electronics. Remove the screws as circled in yellow and unplug the backlight cables as circled in blue. Now you can lift off the metal shield and set it to the side for later replacing.

Here you see both electronics boards, the controller board and the power supply/backlight inverter. Remove the three screws circled in yellow.

The capacitors you need to replace are circled in the picture on the right. Use solder braid and remove the bad caps and solder in the replacement caps. Be sure to replace them in the proper polarity, you will see a stripe on the side. The stripe is the negative lead. Just reinsert the new caps with the stripe going the same direction as the old ones come out. The DAC-19M009 and DAC-19M005 are the same one has the audio and the other does not. The values and part locations are listed here:

220uf 25v – Number 1,3 and 7

1000uf 25v- Number 2 and 5

1000uf 10v- Number 6

2200uf 10v- Number 4
330uf 25v – Number 8

After the parts are replaced just reverse the procedure to reassemble the case. Now apply power and you should have a fully functional monitor again.

64 Comments on Repairing the Westinghouse LCM-22W3

Doc on Wed, 10th Mar 2010 5:32 pm


I have this same model – Mine will do this… When my PC has been shut off & I boot it the 1st time, the monitor power LED will show orange & the monitor will not have a display. If I shut the PC down & boot it again the monitor will come on & work fine with a green LED. This happened for about a week & now there is no display at all. Do you think this procedure will fix my monitor as well? TY in advance – Doc

admin on Wed, 10th Mar 2010 5:46 pm


Hello Dave, Yes, The issues you are having are caused the the failing capacitors. When you restart the PC and monitor they will eventually hold enough charge to operate correctly. then after they have been powered down for a while you have to start the process over again.

Doc on Wed, 10th Mar 2010 7:11 pm


OK – I pulled the power supply on my LCM22W3, but the p/n on the board of my power supply in mine is DAC-19M010 – Do you have any tips for this one? It’s a little different in configuration than the one shown in your pictorial. I have noticed that there are 3 canister-style capcitors where the top of them appear to be pushed up. Does this mean they could be blown? I can send you a pic of it, if it would help.

Doc on Wed, 10th Mar 2010 7:14 pm


The board numbers on the caps are: CE101, CE105 & CE109. If you have a repair kit for this board I’d like to have it & thanks again for your help.

Peter Triffitt on Wed, 17th Mar 2010 4:03 pm


Hello Sirs.
What a brilliant site!! My monitor has just stopped working, no noticable warnings.I have the board DAC-19M009 on my bench, and it all looks in order. But I have tested the fuse (F101) and it is open circuit, there is also a very slight area of soot between the fuse connections. Shall I replace the capacitors anyway? Can you supply the fuse? Or is this a different fault?
Best Regards Pete.

Joe Welsh on Sat, 20th Mar 2010 9:50 pm


I replaced all the caps and now the monitor tuns on for maybe 30 seconds and then shuts off. I can turn it off and then back on again and it will do the same.I have noticed that the transformers, the two black pieces next to the outputs appear to be getting hot to the point the circuit board is starting to discolor. It could also be the two diodes right next to them. Is this the problem with this or is it the one big capacitor that was not changed? It doesn’t appear to be crowning.

CCL_TECH on Sun, 21st Mar 2010 3:55 pm


Yes, We can provide the fuse. Which fuse is blown, the one on the ac side or the pico fuse on the bottom of the board?

brad on Thu, 25th Mar 2010 11:46 pm


Wow, all of these problems seem to have happened in the last 2 weeks for people? Mine just started doing this yesterday and now won’t stay on for more than 5 seconds at a time. Just curious, did you all get this monitor around black friday in like 2006?

LvH on Sun, 28th Mar 2010 6:25 pm


yes, mine stopped working around march 14th. And I bought mine black friday 2006.

Kind of fishy, huh?

Deke on Fri, 2nd Apr 2010 6:03 pm


Hi all,
I replaced the capacitors as instructed. The monitor now powers up, but I have a white screen.
Grrr.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks so much, it’s great that there are people out there that have the know how, and kindness, to help those of us who are clueless! LOL

Deke

CCL_TECH on Fri, 16th Apr 2010 1:04 pm


hello,

Sorry for the late response, we have been swamped with service requests and repairs. The white screen can be caused by several things. First thing, What brand and series capacitors did you use? Check the signal cable from the controller board to the LCD panel and make sure its plugged in tight. The next thing to check is a very small fuse on the LCD panel itself. Here is a picture of a panel showing the fuse location. To check this fuse you will need to be very careful and untape and flip over the control board on the LCD panel that the signal cable plugs into. The picture is not for that exact board, I don’t have that model panel in stock to show you. On the bottom of the panel ( the side you can’t see when the board is normally shown you will see the all of the electronics parts. Look for the fuse, it will be marked F-something on that panel. You can use a multitester set to resistance test to check it. You should get a resistance reading when you check it. If the fuse is blow you will get a open reading. We carry the fuses in stock if you find that is the problem. Let us know what you find.

Jon on Mon, 26th Apr 2010 8:08 pm


My LCM-22W3 had been acting up before, but the power outage last week took it completely. My symptom was a little different. The power light would come on green for about 1-2 seconds, then the very top part of the power light would be a very dim amber. Found your guide and tried to get caps at Shadio Rack and they only had 2 (maybe 1 more that wouldn’t have fit – and those 2 didn’t fix it). So I ordered your kit. Got it today and 30 minutes later I had working monitor.THANK YOU so much for your guide and parts kits – excellent value! If you can solder, you can repair these monitors.

Emmitt J Kraft on Tue, 4th May 2010 9:08 am


My LCM22W3 quit suddenly, won’t power up at all. The LEDs don’t give any indication that power has been applied. I removed the cover and looked for an open fuse and found F100, F102 and F200 on DAC-19M009 board to be OK. For the life of me however, I can’t locate F101 on the board anywhere, even though there is clearly text on the board that says “Caution: against risk of fire, replace only with same type and rating of fuse. (F101)”. Where exactly is this fuse?

Thanks! Emmitt

admin on Tue, 4th May 2010 10:50 am


The fuse F101 is a small round fuse right behind the AC power plug. It does not look like a standard fuse, its about 3/8″ around and about 1/4″ tall, and they are brown in color.

Buddy

Emmitt J Kraft on Fri, 7th May 2010 12:47 pm


Found it! It was right where you said, and it is definitely open. Slightly different than you described though — black and rectangular (~ 3/8×3/8×3/16 ).

I ordered a replacement fuse, and replaced the bridge rectifier too, but it popped right away again. Does that mean I should do the capacitor kit now?

Thanks! Emmitt

CCL_TECH on Fri, 7th May 2010 12:54 pm


Hello Emmitt,

If you can go o the forums section of our site at: http://www.ccl-la.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=5 and click on the button “newtopic” and then post a picture of the top and botom of your power board we will look over it and get right back to you with suggestions. To post the pictures use the links below in blue when you start a new topic, you will find them under the ‘upload attachment’ tab.

Kyle on Wed, 19th May 2010 12:30 pm


I followed the directions in this tutorial after my LCM-22W2 stopped turning on. I opened it up and found the DAC-19m009 board and saw that the capacitors were toast. I de-soldered all the connections and replaced them with brand new slightly higher voltage capacity capacitors. It took some work to get them all to fit but I have a great “new” monitor that works perfectly. Excellent tutorial!

admin on Wed, 19th May 2010 12:33 pm


Glad we could help you get it back going.

viycg on Thu, 20th May 2010 11:45 pm


Hello, great site. Well I have a problem with monitor, fist starting when i connected it was very bright and almost colorless…. wasn’t clear. But now it doesnt turn on, I pulled out the power bord and did what was recomended I checked fuses, one bottom f102 and one on top, changed all the compasitors that were recommended by others on top. When I turn the power cord I hear click,click, sound like spark. And one chip (P605,BD6P2V) get hot. Please I need help…..

monitor bord dac-19m009

admin on Fri, 21st May 2010 9:08 am


Hello,

Please take a picture of your power board top and bottom and post them to our tech forum section at: http://www.ccl-la.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=5 We will look over the pictures and get back with you on the next steps to take. Secondly where did you get the capacitors, what brand are they?

CCL_Tech

hughseyp on Sat, 29th May 2010 11:26 am


hi guys new here, forums looking good

hughseyp

Tom Stephenson on Sun, 12th Sep 2010 2:46 am


Great forums. I have the DAC-19m009 board out of an ACER monitor that suddenly went black and powered off. Upon putting a voltmeter to it, I found it’s missing the 5V out. The 13.8 V output is ok. I did some googling and found this site, and subsequently ordered a capacitor kit I found on Ebay. I was all set to replace them then found the F102 fuse on the bottom of the board, leading to the 5V output pin. The fuse is open.

Question: Did the fuse blow because of a bad video board in the monitor, or because of a bad cap. The caps show no bulging or leakage.

Another question: where can I get this tiny little fuse? What is the rating?

Thanks

admin on Tue, 14th Sep 2010 8:02 pm


The fuse most likely blew because of the voltage spikes cause by the failing caps on the board. The fuse F102 is a 4amp pico fuse. We carry them in our parts store at : http://www.ccl-la.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=64

Kdawgzz on Mon, 4th Oct 2010 1:14 pm


Thanks for the instructions. I ordered the kit on Friday and received it on Monday. Replaced the capacitors and monitor is back in working condition again. A little back ground. Monitor started having problems powering all the way on after it was turned off. Eventually it would not power on at all. This kit fixed my problem and saved me over $150 no need to throw out and replace. Thanks again.

Anonymous on Tue, 26th Oct 2010 12:45 pm


I echo what Kdawgzz said above. Very fast shipping on the repair kit. It is much appreciated! I ordered everything required to repair the monitor: soldering iron, solder, de-soldering braid, and the capacitors. All total it was only $37.00, which I think is a good deal. I have very little experience in soldering, but I was able to do the repair following the instructions in this guide. My Westinghouse LCM-22W3 had the same problem as Kdawgzz: the monitor would not power up after being shut off for a while. The capacitors were bad, they would not hold a charge to keep the monitor on. I replaced the capacitors and the monitor seems to be working fine now.

One thing I will say is that there were two areas where the instruction guide left out some details. One is it doesn’t mention to remove the four screws that hold the back of the monitor to the front. It just says to use a screwdriver to separate the two halves. You have to remove the four screws first. Should be a no-brainer, but it’s not mentioned in the instructions. The second is when you are removing the metal shield to get to the electronics, you have to remove not only the four screws that the instructions mention, you also have to remove the two screws on the power supply and also the four nuts next to the VGA outlets. The instructions do not mention anything about that. I fiddled with it for a while before I realized that I had to remove the nuts next to the VGA outlets in order to remove the metal shield. Also, there are four screws that need to be removed to remove the electronics board. The instructions say three.

I am pointing these things out in case anyone else finds this instruction guide like I did and needs the help when doing the repair.

Jack on Fri, 29th Oct 2010 2:08 pm


Great web-site and explanations. I have a few questions as I am trying to fix my LCM-22W3.

1. I noticed that all the capacitors in question on my board are “CapXon.” They are all black but none shown visible signs of damage (leaks, blown). I am
assuming that just because they do not show visible damage, does not mean that they are good. Correct?

2. Are “CapXon” capacitors the culprit? I came across this website (the first Google hit when searching for “capxon capacitors”)…….

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4381

This website says they are crappy caps. Do you agree? What is the make of the capacitors you sell?

3. If “CapXon” capacitors are crappy capacitors, then why don’t you also recommend swapping out the large CapXon capacitor behing the AC plug?

4. Do you expect that a complete capacitor swap-out will essentially assure that this specific problem (capacitor fail) does not reoccur for a long while?

5. As I am a klutz when it comes to soldering, do you recommended trying to figure out exactly which capacitor(s) are bad (using a multimeter) and swap-out only those?

6. If I took the board to a local electronics guy, how much would you expect him to charge to swap out all the recommende capacitors (if I supplied the capacitors)?

Thanks for the great web-site. Keep up the good work.

joebow on Sun, 31st Oct 2010 9:19 pm


Hello, i have this monitor with issues also.. the monitor will show green then go to orange, but if i leave it on for awhile then unplug it then plug it back in i’ll get flashing orange light, but then it will eventually find the signal and the monitor will turn on.. is this the capacitors or some other issue?? once it’s on it’s great, but it’s getting it on, seems the last day or 2 it’s not responding as fast.. i’m on it in same mode with network at the moment with a high resolution seems not to want to go lower resolution just does the orange light searching for connection flashing. So tell me if this is the fix for this monitor please? looks like it’ll cost me 30 – 40 bucks for the repair because I’ll have to purchase a solder iron and the kit. Also do you ship this kit to Canada, is there shipping charges on it??

CCL_TECH on Mon, 1st Nov 2010 8:06 am


Hello,

Your issues are common with a failure of the power supply board. The board repair kit should get you going again. We do ship to Canada for the same rate as US shipping as calculated on the web site.

CCL_TECH on Mon, 1st Nov 2010 8:14 am


Hello Jack,

The caps in the secondary side of the power supply are the ones that fail because the high frequency switching power supply circuit causes so much stress. The CapXon caps are known to be very poor quality caps. We only use Nichicon and United Chemicon caps for our repairs and repair kits. As for the repair you need to swap out all of the caps in the secondary side even if they are not showing signs of failure right now. They have all been stressed and will soon start having issues so just change the whole lot while you are in the unit to prevent having to reopen it in a month or two. A local repair shop will probably charge around $30 for the repair if you provide the parts – $50 to $60 if they provide them. If you have additional questions just let us know.

Grimmett on Sat, 6th Nov 2010 9:41 am


I did this

it WORKED!!!

I WANT THE TSHIRT!!!



thanks guys

Rick on Mon, 22nd Nov 2010 11:18 pm


I got the repair kit for the westinghouse LCM-22W3
it fixed it right up,, works good ,,,thanks for the support,,,

Brian on Tue, 1st Feb 2011 11:25 am


Bought the repair capacitors from you, arrived very quickly! Just finished putting everything back together, and voila! Brand new functional monitor. Thanks guys! You rock!

yenner on Thu, 24th Feb 2011 8:32 am


Bought the capacitor kit for my VG2330wm…..never done this type of repair before. With the instructions it was easy! Less than 1 hr later, I’ve got a working monitor again! Thanks this was great!

D347H on Tue, 12th Apr 2011 1:01 am


I have a question about the Blue and Pink wires that plug into the power box itself. Now when I took the monitor apart initially, it was Blue top, blue bottom, pink top, pink botton wires in that order. Yours I see Blue top, Pink top, Blue Bottom Pink Bottom wires hooked into it? Now I am completely confused and I am thinking I am now plugging these wires in wrong and that is the reason why it is shutting off.

But what I don’t get is if I leave the monitor off for a long period of time, it will turn on and stay on for maybe 4 minutes top and then begins to shut off non stop. I have to press the power button twice, once to shut it off and once to turn it back on, which is telling me it is NOW getting power to it, but the video is shutting off.

I need help with this big time, if you can explain about the Blue and Pink on the left side of the monitor!?

CCL_TECH on Tue, 12th Apr 2011 7:14 am


Hello and welcome to our site.

The order the plugs are connected does not matter. The monitor has back light bulbs on the top, bottom and each side but they are all the same output and each controller can run two bulbs. The connections on the board are grouped such so the top two go to one side and the top, the bottom two are other side and bottom.

Dave on Thu, 28th Jul 2011 11:43 am


Thanks for the great information on how to fix my monitor! Replaced the caps and now I’ve got a working monitor again! $15 well spent in my opinion. I’ll keep you guys in mind if I have any more monitors that decide to stop working in the future!

Jimi Ray on Sat, 12th Nov 2011 11:26 pm


Thank you! Received my capacitors today (ultra fast shipping!) and just replaced them. My monitor lives again! Saved me some big $$’s money well spent. Cheers!

GARRY DUNAVIN on Thu, 15th Dec 2011 3:16 pm


I want to thank you for helping me fix my monitor. I bought the fix package for Westinghouse 22 Monitor and it fixed it like new. thanks again.

GARRY DUNAVIN

Wavetrex on Thu, 12th Jan 2012 7:44 pm


Hello, my Acer AL226w uses the EXACT same electronics as this Westinghouse (looks absolutely identical on the inside, same boards, same IC’s)

Lately it stopped turning on once in a while, then after a few retries it somehow started. I decided to check inside to see if there’s anything I can fix, and noticed 3 of those capacitors were swelled, and they heat up when unit is turned on.

This happened today, so tomorrow I’ll buy new capacitors and hopefully remedy the problem for a few years from now on.

Thanks for the tips guys !

CCL_TECH on Thu, 12th Jan 2012 8:56 pm


Yes, A few of the Acer AL2216W units use the same power supply as the Westinghouse LCM-22W3 Be sure to get the proper ratings on the new capacitors, they will need to be low ESR, high ripple current and high temp or they will quickly fail and could further damage the board circuitry when they do. This page on our site shows what manufacturers and series are rated for use in switched mode power supplies like this. If you can’t find the correct parts locally we do ship world wide. Good luck on your repair.

Wavetrex on Fri, 13th Jan 2012 4:17 pm


Thanks for that page.

It’s fixed for now, but I could only find some chinese no-name caps here where I live.
For now it will have to do, at least I can look at a working 22″ screen, instead of the tiny laptop one I’ve been using the past few days since it begun shutting off.

I’ll try to find some Nichicon / Rubycon / Chemicon ones, but it’s not easy in Romania… we’re not exactly in the middle of technological heaven

When I do, I’ll replace them again, it only took half hour to do so, it’s not a hard operation at all, and it surely saves lots of $ !

Thanks CCL!

mike on Sat, 14th Jan 2012 1:58 am


i have the same moniter and mine will come on and show no signal with no vga or dvi pluged in but when i plug in a dvi cord the screen wont show nothing and the orange light goes real dim any advice

CCL_TECH on Sat, 14th Jan 2012 5:08 pm


Hello Mike,
When the monitor tries to display a full screen picture it takes much more power than just the no signal screen. It sounds like your power supply is failing but has not completely died yet. Open the unit and check the capacitors, I would bet you have a few with bulging tops. Rebuild the power supply and you should be good to go.

troy on Fri, 16th Mar 2012 11:34 am


hey i have a westinghouse lcm-22w3 monitor and i replaced the caps that you listed with caps that i found at a company that sells electronics but he didnt have the exact match but he said as long as the voltages were a litle higher and the uf were a little higher it is ok. which i kinda debated it but after i replaced the caps the monitor worked for like 5 months. now the monitor back light is out again and the fuse f200 is blown which tells me that mabe one of the caps is out of value here is a list of your values and what i have in comparason mabe you can figure out which cap or caps is blowing the drver fuse.

220uf 25v- 1,3,7 i have 330uf 25v made by NTE except #1 which is a blue cap and it doesnt have a uf or voltage but it says LELOA REA85oc H801(M) (IM THINKING ITS THIS 1 BUT THE GUY AT THE STORE SAID ITS GOOD)

1000uf 25v-2,5 i have number 2 is 1000uf 25v and 5 is 1000uf 25v made by NTE

1000uf 10v-6 i have 1000uf 10v NTE

2200uf 10v-4 i have 2200uf 10v NTE

330uf 25v-8 i have 330UF 25V NTE

LIKE I SAID THERE IS NO BACKLIGHT NOW AND NO CAPS ARE BLOWN NOT 100% SURE W/O A CAP TESTER BUT THE F200 IS OPEN AND THIS POWER SUPPLY IS NUMBER DAC-19M009. IM GOING TO TRY TO GET A NUTHER FUSE BUT IM SURE IT WILL PROBABLY BLOW OPEN AGAIN.PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK

admin on Fri, 16th Mar 2012 2:47 pm


NTE capacitors are only rated for general purpose applications not high speed switching power supplies like this. Replace the capacitors with the proper rated parts and replace the 4Amp fuse and you should be good to go. Here is the link to our page showing what brands and series capacitors are rated correctly for use in this type of power supply circuit.

Val on Tue, 18th Sep 2012 6:31 pm


Just fixed my LCM-22W3 using the caps from you Parts Store. The monitor powered right up and the display is bright again, like it used to be many years ago.

This was the first time I have soldered since 30+ years ago in high school. It was fun in spite of the burnt fingers, which are no longer hurting.

Thanks CC.

admin on Tue, 18th Sep 2012 8:12 pm


Glad we could help you get your monitor back up and running again. That is a nice monitor and most computer repair shops will not even look at on for repair, what a shame. No one does board level repairs anymore….

Val on Sun, 23rd Sep 2012 9:53 am


After adding the new caps to my LCM-22w3 monitor last week, it is fixed and working great with one exception. I’ve noticed the screen will just go black, the green power light will turn orange then return back to green, then the screen display returns back to normal. These occurrences are about 3 seconds in duration and happen about 1-3 times per day. Not a serious problem but just annoying.

Any ideas as to what could be happening? Is there another part I could have/should have replaced?

I’m actually running this monitor as a 2nd display on my laptop. Before I replaced the caps, when the monitor was just a darker dispaly and took awhile to powerup but still working, this problem never occurred. Only happening since I replaced all the caps.

Thanks for any guidance you can provide.

Val on Wed, 26th Sep 2012 9:42 am


Concerning my last post Sun, 23rd Sep, 2012…I’ve observed this occurrence about 5 more times with one difference from what I previously stated. The orange light is not coming on afterall. The green power light stays on the entire time, even though the monitor display goes black for about 3 seconds.
I was wondering if there is an internal setting to the monitor that can be changed, but I found the manual and nothing is stated as such.

ed on Sun, 30th Sep 2012 4:37 pm


I have theLCM-22w3 monitor with this problem, but the power board is a DAC-19M010 and has different caps than what you show. Any difference in caps or procedure ?

CCL_TECH on Sun, 30th Sep 2012 4:44 pm


Hello,

The disassembly is the same, the repair kit for that board is available here: http://www.ccl-la.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=198

ed on Mon, 1st Oct 2012 9:53 pm


Thanks for the info, but this link works better.
http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/repairing-the-acer-al2216w-lcd-monitor/
It’s the same board, but gives the entire procedure.

Evan Otis on Fri, 4th Jan 2013 4:32 pm


I repaired my monitor using a kit similar to this one that I bought off from eBay. Everything seemed all well and good until i put it back together and it wasn’t turning on. I looked into it and 4 out of the 6 buttons broke off. Can i solder those back on also or do you sell a board that I could just replace it with?

troy holman on Fri, 11th Jan 2013 10:05 am


i replaced the caps that your website required and my monitor has worked for almost a year, but yesterday it stopped working. again. now there is no screen but the power light stays on i do not see any of the caps blown so i was wondering if you had any testing procedures on the output for the back light that i can check with my VOLTMETER. I have checked some SMT parts for shorts but i really wish i had a capacitor testor

admin on Fri, 11th Jan 2013 10:10 am


What brand capacitors did you use for the repair? If they were not low ESR parts then they have probably failed again. Some brands can fail internally and leave no visible signs of failure. Let me know where you got the capacitors and the marking on the caps and we can go from there.

troy holman on Fri, 11th Jan 2013 10:28 am


my original post was number 44 and i used NTE caps so your probably right that they are faulty or no good.

Val on Fri, 11th Jan 2013 12:35 pm


UPDATE and SOLUTION RE: Posts on 9/23 and 9/26 2012

My newly repaired LCM 22w3 monitor was intermittently going to black screen (even though the power remained on). This would usually happen from 1 -5 times a day, for about 3 seconds at a time. I eventually purchased a DVI cable to replace my VGA cable and no more problems. Apparently the issue was the cable itself or the circuitry for the VGA output on my PC/Docking station, or of the input on my monitor. I know it wasn’t the video card, because I’ve connected the monitor via DVI on the same vid card as the VGA cable was on, and didn’t have any issues. Also, I’ve now got a new USB vid adapter for this monitor hooked up via DVI, and no issues at all.
Just an FYI if any of you run into a similar issue.

admin on Fri, 11th Jan 2013 1:36 pm


Yes, NTE capacitors are only general purpose and not rated for low ESR, high temp applications. I would bet that replacing them will bring the unit back to life. Also check the little fuse in the middle of the power supply board and be sure it is still good.

Dave on Sun, 27th Jan 2013 6:06 pm


I just installed the kit of capacitors and bam! Back to the living. Mine had been experiencing the white screen when powered off for almost 6 months. My “temp” fix had been just to dim the desktop or black screensaver. I figured it would finally just crap out, but it did take a lot longer than I had anticipated. Anyway, pretty simple soldering and a good forum has me happy again.

CCL_TECH on Sun, 27th Jan 2013 7:58 pm


Another one saved from the trash pile!

troy holman on Sun, 3rd Feb 2013 6:11 pm


i just bought the repair kit and even replaced u202 and u203 checked the fuse f101 and f200 they were fine no visible smoke or over heated parts were noticeable. i saw on a video that a guy was shining a light up to the screen and it showed the Google icons so i tried the same thing and i saw the windows screen so i know its definitely the back-light is bad only thing is how to check the back-light to test it to see if its the bulb or the back-light it self any suggestions would be nice i don’t want to give up on this monitor. BTW i used the required capacitors from your kit so there is something else going wrong . any voltage checks i can do from the power board to the back-light to make sure i`m getting power to the back-light would be nice and how to test it because its probably a lot of current going threw there and i dont want to blow my meter or get shocked . also just some info when i power the LCD on and off i see that there is a flash of quick light but non readable and its like a strobe light not sure if that means the back-light bulb is ok.

troy holman on Wed, 6th Feb 2013 3:13 pm


I should of bought your kit the first time around because i think the cheaper caps proably dammaged something else. Because im back at square one again with out a backlight and i bought the kit and replaced the caps again but with the correct type but now it doesnt work and im kikking my self in the butt please have mercy on me i was just trying to save money can you please tell me what i can do to fix this backlight . when i hit the power for a split second it flashes but no screen. i used a flashlight and i can see the windows screen so i know its the backlight. i found a website that shoes how to test the bulb, but you have to buy a new one to test it good thing they are only $9 dollars. All my fuses are good so im wondering what about d102 and d101 these are transistors i think from what i was told they are like switches controlling the current opening and closing could they be the next part to replace? or what about U104 and U102. Im going nutz here with out my monitor please help me ?

Anthony on Wed, 10th Apr 2013 9:51 am


I have never soldered before in my life but I decided to try to fix my monitor by ordering from this site.

I read the instructions carefully and watching many soldering videos on youtube before ordering and ended up ordering the kit plus the starter solder kit.

The package came within 3 days of ordering (very speedy delivery!)

After an hour and a half of work, I had a perfectly working monitor again!

Make sure you do pay attention to the comment the Anonymous user left about missing instruction steps as they are very important as the board will not come out without removing those extra screws.

Thanks!

Greg on Sat, 27th Apr 2013 5:40 pm


Perfect tutorial! You get serious kudos!

I used caps out of other dead/canabalized power supplies and it works great! My initial symptoms were that the green power light would turn on for about 1 second and then turn off. No other activity was seen. I changed the caps and Voila!

Thanks again! It’s people like you that keep the world/internet turning.

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