If you have a Samsung SyncMaster 214T, SyncMaster 225BW, SyncMaster 226BW or SyncMaster 204T monitor that either has a blinking power light or a very dark picture then this should help get you back running. These monitors all use the NP-20 or IP-58130A power supply boards. Below you will find a full walk thru on repairing your LCD monitor. If you would prefer to watch a video on this repair it is available HERE. To do the repair you will need the following tools: Soldering iron, de-solder braid, Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver. You will also need the following electronic parts: qty(2) 820uf 25v capacitors, qty(3) 330uf 25v and qty(1) 47uf 50v. We sell a repair kit with all of the parts for $12.00.

Check your power board, if your board uses 2 680uf capacitors in the center then you need to get the repair guide/kit for the Samsung 204b.
If you don’t want to do the repair yourself, use the service request form above. Most monitor repairs run $30-35 plus return shipping.

Here we have a non functional Samsung SyncMaster 214T 21.5″ LCD monitor. This unit has a fast blinking power light. We have repaired several of these in our shop and they all have the exact same issue with the power supply.

First you need to remove the power cable, signal cable and the stand. To remove the stand you will need to remove the 4 thumbscrews, they are circled in yellow.

To remove the cover you will need to use the small flat blade screwdriver. Across the bottom there are several release tabs, if you insert the screwdriver into the slot the case will release. When you get one corner released just work your way around.

Here is a picture of what the release tabs look like after you have separated the 2 halves. If you work from the front of the monitor and gently pull the faceplate it should separate from the back fairly easily.

After the screen unit is removed from the plastic case we can get down to the repair. We need to remove the power supply unit. You will need to unplug the control panel, circled in red. The remove the 6 screws that are holding the metal shield in place (yellow circles).
Now unscrew and remove the power supply board. To remove the board you need to unscrew the 5 screws circled to yellow and unplug the 4 backlight plugs and the signal cable, all circled in red.
The 5 capacitors that need to be replaced are circled in yellow. We have already replaced the capacitors in this picture. Before replacement all of these caps had very noticeable bulging tops. The top 2 caps in the top right circle are 820uf 25v and the rest are 330uf 25v. Be sure to reinstall the caps with the polarity stripe going the same direction as the old ones come out.

After the parts are replaced just reverse the procedure to reassemble the case. Now apply power and you should have a fully functional monitor again.


Update 1/4/2012: We also have a youtube video posted showing the repair procedure for the Samsung 214T monitor
Part 1 – Dis-Assembly

Part 2 – Board repair

We sell a repair kit with all of the parts for $12.00.

And a video on the repair of the Samsung 225BW monitor.

39 Comments on Samsung 214T,204T,226BW,225BW Repair

Rory on Mon, 15th Mar 2010 9:44 pm


Hello,

My Samsung 225BW went down. I’ve heard I can buy the IP Board (IP-45130A) (BN44-00127M). Buying this board is cheaper than buying a new monitor. I have two of the monitors side by side and buying a different monitor would require adjusting the wall mounts. I would rather not do that if I can replace the board myself. If necessary I can buy another 225BW somewhere but if this will work, I would like to try it.

I’m pretty handy, and can use a soldering iron, but I don’t want to get into soldering and circuit testing if I can help it. I am not an electronics technician.

Do you sell this complete board? Does installation of this board require soldering? Can this be replaced by the average person?

Would it be better for a non-electronics technician to replace the board, or replace the needed components on the board?

Thank you in advance!! Rory.

admin on Mon, 15th Mar 2010 10:25 pm


Hello,

We don’t have any of the boards available for sale right now but we can repair your board for you if you are interested. use the service request link at the top of the page to set up service. We charge $30 plus shipping for the repair.

Shane brown on Sun, 21st Mar 2010 3:49 pm


I bought your capacitor kit and it worked great! The company I work for was going to through this Monitor away! So I took it home and tore it apart. Then I ordered from you guys, Thanks!

jtex792 on Sat, 27th Mar 2010 8:24 am


One of my two SyncMaster 204Ts is malfunctioning. When first powering it up, or after waking-up after idleness, the display flickers for a minute or two and the display is very dim. Thereafter, the monitor will either operate normally or it will go dark (blank; no back lighting). Could this be power supply issues or microchip issues?

Your thoughts and recommendations please. Thanks!

admin on Sat, 27th Mar 2010 8:52 pm


This is a good example of failing capacitors in the power supply. The flickering is caused by the power supply voltages fluctuating as it tries to stabilize, if it does then you have a picture, if not the you get the black screen. If you follow this repair article then you should be able to get it back going again.

deron on Sun, 4th Apr 2010 12:26 pm


I have a 225BW and the screen is just all white. Can I just send the circut board to you for repairs?

Deron

CCL_TECH on Sun, 4th Apr 2010 7:48 pm


Yes, We should be able to do the repair with just the power board. Use the service request link at the top of the page to submit your information.

Paul on Tue, 13th Apr 2010 11:54 am


I have the 214T. I’d like to extend its life a bit longer if I can. The DVI no longer works on the back, but the VGA does. So far, no issues with caps or screen flicker, and mine is over the 3 year mark.

Just wondering, how much is it to just buy a new main board, with working DVI?

Thanks
Paul

Hagen on Tue, 13th Apr 2010 2:19 pm


Thanx 4 this step-by-step repair and for that repair kit!
I’ve just repaired my 214t and it works all perfect, before the repair it took the screen about five minutes to show some picture. I’m glad i’ve found this amazing website

Greetings from Germany!

yves on Wed, 5th May 2010 11:02 am


I have same problem on my samsung 203b
i have different board thad have 3 capasitors of 820 uf 25v and 1 of 330 uf 25v
i was going to the electronic parts store to get these capasitors,
the man from the store give me 3 capasitors of 1000 uf 25v and 1 of 330 uf 25v
and told me the 1000 uf 25 v wil work fine, afther soldering the new caps,
the monitor is stil black like there is no backlicht, but when i look ferry scharp, i see a litle bit the pc screen, but ferry dark.
I respected the negative site of the caps , what is the problem?
when i use the vold meter there is no charge one the new caps,
what did i do rong?

admin on Wed, 5th May 2010 4:09 pm


Hello,

Please post a picture of the board on our tech forum site at: http://www.ccl-la.com/forum/viewforum Our techs will look over the board picture and get back with what to do.

Buddy

yves on Fri, 7th May 2010 12:44 am


Thanks anyway, the problem is solved, it was the green picofuse of 3Amp thad was broken aswel, i soldered a new one and my lcd screen is running just fine , now, thanks to this webside, i have replaced 3 – 820 uf 25 v by 1000 uf 25 v
and 1 – 330 uf 25 v by the same, and also the green Picofuse 3Amp.
the operation cost me 4 euro, i am happy like a child.

Andra on Mon, 10th May 2010 8:07 pm


I have taken the monitor apart per your instructions and a couple of the capacitors are slightly bulging. But… never having done anything like this before, how do I remove and replace them. I really wish there were some additional photos. Also I am having problems disconnecting the plugs and cables from the board. Any suggestions for removal? Thank you

admin on Tue, 11th May 2010 1:22 pm


Some of the cables are a little hard to remove, be sure to press the little release tab on the top of the backlight plugs and on the side of the larger power plug, then the cables should just pull off. To remove the capacitors you will need to use a soldering iron and melt the solder from one leg and pull the part from that side and them melt the solder on the other leg and pull that part free. To reinstall the parts you will need the soldering iron and a spool of solder to melt and solder the connections back. If you have not done this type repair just check with friends many do-it-yourself types have soldered before and will already have the tools needed.

CCL_Tech

Alan on Thu, 27th May 2010 2:39 pm


My 214T had the flickering after power up. For a while it would finally stabilize and work OK, but later it just remained black at power up. I disassembled it and found that the two tall electrolytics were bulged at the top, so I ordered the CC kit.

I got my 214T repair kit from CC today. I replaced the five capacitors and the monitor works perfectly, just like new.

Thanks so much!
Alan

jade on Sat, 29th May 2010 10:12 am


After a bum steer from an EBAY outfit, I spent 6 hours totally dismantling the LCD to replace the CCFLs, all 4 in my 226BW. I almost ruined the LCD and mechanics doing this and managed to scratch the screen. When I switched it on again nothing happened and was about to toss it. Then I noticed a flicker and the after 2 minutes the screen started flashing and eventually tuned on. The problem is temperature related, it turns on with hot air. I stripped off the power supply and saw the bulging caps and there was evidence of dark gas leaks from them. I thought about replacing them and then saw the website for confirmation. I will be replacing them shortly. I realise that cheap elec caps fail quickly but this was too quick. This is the second problem I have had with Samsung gear, I will be avoiding in future. Thanks for the website guide.

Vladimir on Wed, 2nd Jun 2010 10:21 am


Thank you very much! My 214T now works like a charm.

Of course my soldering could me much better if I new the tip, first touch capacitor’s leg with the tip of your solder, then apply soldering iron. This way flux will work, just smooth solder over the surface and you will end up with an even, finished appearance.

What I did wrong, I first touched the solder with iron, then move iron tip to the soldering point, took just few seconds, but it was enough for flux to evaporate. Hence, no smooth surface.

Anyway, my monitor now works perfectly and I’m a happy guy now.

P.S. Five of six capacitors were bulged, shame on you Samsung.

Maurice on Sun, 6th Jun 2010 10:28 pm


Do the replace caps you sell have a higher voltage range than the originals? A lower ESR? Have you guys figured out why these caps keep dying? Did Samsung just use capacitors of a lower quality / voltage?

admin on Mon, 7th Jun 2010 8:01 am


Samsung did not use bad capacitors at the time, they used what everyone else was using. The original problem is caused by the older capacitors overheating in the confined spaces of the monitor and the faulty chemicals in the capacitors expanding and blowing the caps. The replacement capacitors we use are made by Nichicon and United Chemicon which are 2 of the best brands on the market. You should have any more years of use from your monitor after replacing the failed parts.

Jean Claude on Tue, 22nd Jun 2010 12:44 am


I tried to exchange the capacitors, and did not succeded: the cause of the blinking was at the end a bad solder on one of the six lighting tubes appeared (after 3 years!).

So, there was a decrease of current and protection mode.

McAWilliams on Wed, 30th Jun 2010 4:04 am


I have what sounds like similiar problems to everyone else here, when I power up the monitor the screen come on with a slowish random flicker, then the flickering gets worse then the screen goes to black, this after been left of all night might take 2-3 minutes.

When I go to power it up again the same process happens but on each restart the black screen comes quicker.

Is this the same issue you describe, because i see you talk about flashing power lights, this does not happen with my monitor.

admin on Thu, 8th Jul 2010 11:53 am


Hello and welcome to our site,

Yes, the screen or power light flickering is caused by the power supply. What is happening is the power board is attempting to stabilize the power but with the failing capacitors it is having a hard time doing it. The flickering you see is the power supply stopping and starting over and over, sometimes it may stabilize and you will get a clear picture but it will start over when you power it down. By replacing he capacitors in the power board you should be as good as new again.

hassan on Fri, 27th Aug 2010 11:41 am


Hi,
My screen was flickering so i replaced the capacitors as described above, but now, it works for like a minute then turns completely black.
Any ideas?

Curt on Fri, 27th Aug 2010 9:39 pm


I replaced the capacitors and i still get the blinking light. I opened the monitor back up and found that the two 820 caps failed again. What else could be the problem?

Peter on Wed, 8th Sep 2010 8:27 am


Thanks for this site and for making the parts available. We just repaired my Samsung SyncMaster 225BW with the new capacitors I purchased. (I was the lab assistant.) We had a little difficulty removing the back at the top of the monitor and broke two plastic connectors. The tall capacitors were slightly taller than the originals as noted elsewhere in this blogg, but it all went back together fine. Monitor is working great. Thanks again.

admin on Wed, 8th Sep 2010 8:43 pm


Hello,

If the 820uf caps failed that fast then they were installed backwards. The polarity strips should go towards the middle of the board not to the outside. The board has a silkscreen print of a circle with one half shaded, this is the side the stripe goes on. I would bet you will find the 820uf caps soldered backwards. Check this and get back to us at tech@ccl-la.com

admin on Wed, 8th Sep 2010 8:45 pm


Hello
Check the the polarity of the capacitors, my first thought is that one or more are installed backwards. Silk screened on the board is a circle with half shaded out, this is the side the stripe goes on. Check this and let us know at tech@ccl-la.com

MCharlie on Fri, 10th Sep 2010 9:17 pm


My BW226 exhibited all the above symptoms…opened it up and found the tube caps popcorned. Replaced all 6 caps on the board. Monitor worked fine for 2 weeks and then started to act up again. Opened it back up and found, AHEM..a bad solder connection one of the illumination out put caps. (820uf 25v) Fixed that..monitor worked for 3 weeks and now when turned on, flashes once and goes black…..if I flip the switch a few times, sometimes the monitor will come on for 10 or 15 minutes, and then go black again. I used top cabin caps….as I do in all my ham equipment. Any thoughts? Could the CCFL backlites be bad after all the voltage flickering? Hate to trash the monitor..it is fast and the color is excellent…when it works.

admin on Tue, 14th Sep 2010 8:07 pm


Hello,

The caps you used are not rated for low ESR and high ripple current. The switching power supply used in the monitor requires the low ESR rated caps to operate and without the high ripple current the caps will be damaged by the spikes created on the board. Check this page on our site for information on what series caps to use: http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/capacitors/ If you still have issues after this then let us know at tech@ccl-la.com

Mark Raker on Fri, 1st Oct 2010 10:30 am


My 214T flickered on power up for a week and then completely died. I never had a flashing power button but since the symptoms sounded so similar I ordered your five capacitor repair kit. It arrived in two days and because I’ve never replaced capacitors before I took things very carefully but still disassembly, desoldering, soldering in new components and then reassembly took less than an hour. The monitor now works perfectly! Your $12 repair kit and clear instructions have saved me from having to replace a monitor I could ill afford to lose.

Thank you for your product, thank you for your help and thank you for your generosity.

- Mark

trang on Sat, 2nd Oct 2010 5:20 am


Got the repair kit for my 225bw promptly.
Was able to fit my monitor and now I’m very happy.
Thank-you!

John on Tue, 16th Nov 2010 5:36 pm


You guys completely rock! I just had two SyncMaster 225BW monitors which I had to power cycle repeatedly to get them to come up. With a bit of trepidation I tore the first one up (with a few differences in superficial screws from the diagram), replaced the three capacitors in the upper right of the diagram ( the three in line ones, 820uF and two 330uF). The other two on my monitor were 660uf, not 330 as shown and thus not replace (they also looked good). I put the box together and everything checked out fine. With the first monitor under my belt the second one took only a few minutes to fix and I now have two like new monitors sitting on my desk. Once again, thank you guys so much for this information, it was obviously very helpful to me. And screw Samsung for having nothing on their website about this problem or how to fix it. I guess they just want to sell more monitors.

Jim on Sat, 22nd Jan 2011 10:51 am


Just finished making the repair on my Syncmaster 214T. Rock solid thanks to the excellent repair kit (the tools in the kit made it so much easier…I’m not an experienced electronics whiz…).
Highly recommended…was fun to do too…
Kept another monitor out of the land fill site…

Anders on Tue, 8th Mar 2011 11:56 am


Thanks a lot for this guide! Living in Holland, I could not wait for an overseas shipment so I bought the capacitators at a local shop. I replaced them according to this guide and was able to reanimate two 214T’s. Got a third one stored somewhere in the back of my garage, will try to repair that one as well once I can plough my way through to it.

Disappointed in Samsung though. Spent over $2000 on 3 monitors, only to see 1 break down in 1 year and 2 others after 3 years. Samsung may have used the same capacitators everyone else was using, but still I expected a lot more for this money. Luckily you guys put this excellent guide online so I was able to give them a second life.

Do you know if Samsung uses better quality capacitators these days, admin?

CCL_TECH on Tue, 8th Mar 2011 1:43 pm


Everybody had issues with capacitors because the capacitor makers tried a new formula that looked good but failed after a few years. Every brand monitor, computer, power supply and video card maker was affected by the bad cap syndrome. Now the capacitor manufacturers have the formulation worked out that should be stable for much longer.

Dan from Oregon on Sat, 17th Dec 2011 1:43 pm


Thanks for the inexpensive parts kits and clear instructions.
I did both my Samsung 213T and 214T this week.
The 214T was doing the dim and flickering on start up thing.
It is now working normally.
I applied the repair to the 213, even though it was working normally,
since it was the older unit. Interestingly, the power supply caps
looked like new. I replaced them anyway. The inverter caps were
bulging a bit.
Both are working well. A satisfying exercise in frugality.

Paul on Sat, 31st Dec 2011 6:43 am


This repair works for the 225BW, so I assume it should work for a 225B aswell?
I don’t have the monitor so I can’t have a look at the power supply board. Thx in advance.

CCL_TECH on Thu, 12th Jan 2012 9:05 pm


Yes,

The kit will work with that model too.

Frank Siegler on Mon, 30th Jan 2012 4:27 pm


Repaired Samsung 226bw with your kit. Three day delivery…$12 and saved about $300.00…highly recommend your company!!!

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